Wednesday | 2009-1-7
 


Men’s Fall-Winter 2008 Collection

The sky over East Berlin.

Before its collapse, on the eve of the city’s reconstruction, Ferragamo shows us The Lives of Others.
Dim interiors in the wan elegance of sepia, setting the stage for artists and intellectuals in the shadow of a new Germany.
Shimmering lights show a silent city fading into nameless suburbs with the ambiguous appeal of border zones. Metallic blues and grays erupt in a symphony of sophistication against the colours of abandoned steel mills north of the city: lead, pewter, and cobalt.
The works of Brice Marden: three-tone flags in unexpected hues of gray, bronze, black and evergreen.

The look is soft and sophisticated, with contrasting balances and proportions; slim fits are worn together with the oversized.
One-button suits combine fitted jackets and skinny pants, worn atop voluminous shoes.
Outerwear takes on fluid and rounded shapes, while oversized bags come in oil-softened crocodile skin as supple as nappa leather.

Jackets boast complex constructions: including double lapels sewn by hand.
Borders melt together as fine materials are mixed with technical fabrics. Nylon is as intricate as a spider’s web and as fine as silk. Textures create movement, while surfaces lend sheen.

Glossy and matte conspire together to surprise us. Shoes have contrasting crocodile and suede trims.
Identity flows from modulation of roles.
Double faced materials are center stage. Sophisticated techniques combine flannel with leather and alligator skin. Inside or out, the pieces can be worn either way. Reversible coats reveal fine linings.

Exquisite unlined parkas are luxurious in natural gray mink.
The extravagant charm of Central Europe is seen in the fur ushankas.
Knee-high boots with woolen tops are the very latest in innovative footwear, while swallowtailed cashmere overcoats bring back the look of Europe’s great dynasties. 

Cuts are elegant and vaguely military, but with softened lines and lighter constructions.
Belts with large, tarnished copper buckles are worn over cardigans and coats. Abstract paintings inspire imaginative tricot, and antique pink and orange grace the collection, while piece-dyed knits play on a wild assortment of weaves: high collars, bias cuts, and new ways to wear “poncho knits”.

Meanwhile, crocodile skin ties are the culmination of chic.
Tuxedo shirts have a tailor-made look, with fronts pleated by hand. Black patent leather shoes match soft nappa leather sashes that can be worn like waistcoats or sumptuous cummerbunds.
Short-waisted blazers with hand-beaded trims lend glamour, while new tuxedos redefine luxury in Salvatore Ferragamo evening wear.

 
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